Wine: China recognizes 45 Bordeaux appellations

The fight against counterfeiting takes a turn in China. One year after recognizing the wine geographical indication "bordeaux", Beijing formalized the recognition of 45 of 57 Bordeaux appellations as a geographical indication, including the prestigious Saint-Émilion.

Until now, only five geographical indications in wines and spirits were recognized by China, namely Cognac, Champagne, Napa Valley, Scotch Whisky et Tequila.

wine blog fine wines Counterfeit wine thank you china

What is a Geographical Indication ?

According to the definition in article 22:1 international agreements on the protection of intellectual rights (ADPIC), a geographical indication:

is a sign used to identify a product from a specific location,
who could be: the territory of this country, a region, or a locality of this territory;
having: a determined quality, a reputation, or other characteristics, which are mainly due to this geographical origin.

A "strong signal" from China for the wine industry

The Bordeaux wine industry can rejoice, China announced the recognition of 45 Bordeaux wine appellations. This decision should make it possible to better combat counterfeits in a very important Chinese market.

Indeed, Bordeaux are the most famous French wines in China. The counterpart of this success is the existence of a large counterfeit market. Mediocre wines disguised more or less well as authentic wines are legion in the country, and uninformed consumers. For Fabien Bova, the general manager of the Interprofessional Bordeaux Wine Council - CIVB —, this announcement is a "strong signal" which will offer the industry better weapons to fight "misappropriation of notoriety".

Despite "a certain awareness", counterfeiting is still practiced on a large scale in China. According to a report from the Ministry of Foreign Trade, there are "more counterfeit French wines in China than non-counterfeit wines and the situation keeps getting worse. […] The vast majority of counterfeits are made by importers and distributors of wines and spirits who seek to lower their purchase prices ".

Bernard Farges welcomes "the strong mobilization and in-depth work" of the general administration of quality supervision, inspection and quarantine - AQSIQ —, in particular in charge of quality, l’inspection, food quarantine, standardization and recognition by Chinese law of product manufacturing processes, recognition and monitoring of geographical indications. The CIVB also announces that it will continue its collaboration with AQSIQ in order to perpetuate this cooperation to take full advantage of this protection and give the Chinese authorities the opportunity to fight against abusive uses..

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For Stéphane Le Foll, French Minister of Agriculture who was in Beijing for the occasion confirms the importance of this decision : "Official recognition […] means additional means to defend these indications and appellations before Chinese justice ". For the Minister, although exports of bordeaux rouge declined in 2014, volumes exported increased by 34 % last year.

According to the CIVB, China is the leading foreign market in volume and value for Bordeaux wines. In 2015, 63.8 million bottles of wine have been sent to the country - this represents 24 % of Bordeaux wine exports - for a turnover of 277 millions of euros. Bordeaux is the leading wine region in French imports into China.

China "The danger, it's a health crisis "

In order to prepare for the Chengdu wine fair, around a hundred police officers had been trained to recognize counterfeit, thanks to the cooperation of Bordeaux professionals. This wine and spirits fair has become a major event in China. As in any salon in China, there is the official version and the much less official version. According to a French official, recognized professionals showcase their products on stands "better and better kept". The risk of finding a counterfeit is "more and more difficult", but around the living room, "We see everything".

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For Bernard Farges, president of the CIVB, the problem of counterfeits is not limited to a shortfall : "More than economic damage […] the danger, it is a health crisis "which would have serious consequences on the reputation of French wines. In 2008, melamine milk scandal traumatized Chinese society. For Fabien Bova, a similar scandal in the wine industry would be "abominable damage".

At #Beijing ceremony for the recognition of 45 #indications geographical areas of Bordeaux by the Chinese authorities 1/2 pic.twitter.com/E5KrETSSoz
- Stéphane Le Foll (@SLeFoll) 2 June 2016

After recognition in 2009 of the Cognac and Champagne appellation, Stéphane Le Foll is satisfied with this news : "There is a convergence between China and France on the concept of protected geographical indications" for agricultural products. With the official recognition of these 45 appellations, the entire production of still wines can now use the legal lever to lead an active fight against counterfeiting. For the time being, crémants are not concerned, but represent few volumes.

A false exchange of good process

For Beijing to recognize ten European appellations, whose county, Roquefort or even Parma ham, the European Union had to recognize in return ten Chinese geographical indications, including Pinggu peach and Longjing tea.

The aim is to establish a full case law with the Chinese authorities. A Controlled Designation of Origin (AOC) identifies a product whose manufacturing steps are carried out in the same geographical area and according to recognized know-how. The recognition of the appellations in China is therefore a real issue for Bordeaux wine professionals.. It will facilitate the characterization of offenses, the main problem in counterfeiting. The Chinese government has set up three specialized courts in Shanghai, Canton and Tianjin before which cases can be brought.

Although this recognition is good news, there is still a long way to go before obtaining a satisfactory result for French wines. Indeed, it should be noted that the Chinese customs duties imposed on European wines are set at 14 % and to which must be added local consumption taxes - can drive up the price of 48 % —… Chilean and soon Australian wines are exempt, allowing them to display a lower price to consumers.

Bordeaux wine : China will have to fight… through Europe1fr

Here is the list of 45 recognized appellations :

Bordeaux - Barsac - Blaye – Côtes de Bordeaux – Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux – Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux – Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux – Francs Côtes de Bordeaux – Bordeaux Haut Benauge – Superior Bordeaux - Cadillac – Canon Fronsac – Côtes-de-Blaye – Cerons – Côtes de Bordeaux Saint Macaire – Côtes-de-Bourg / Bourg / Bourgeais – Between two seas – Entre-Deux-Mers Haut Benauge - Fronsac - Graves – Graves de Vayres – Upper Bass – Haut Medoc – Lalande de Pomerol – Listrac Médoc – Loupiac- Lussac Saint- Emilion - Margaux – Médoc – Saint-Emilion mountain – Moulis or Moulis en Médoc - Pauillac – Pessac-Léognan - Pomerol – First Côtes de Bordeaux – Puisseguin SaintEmilion - Sauternes – Saint Emilion – Saint-Emilion Grand Cru – Saint Estephe – Saint-Georges Saint-Emilion – SaintJulien – Sainte-Croix du Mont – Sainte-Foy Bordeaux.

To read also on the net :