Organic wines are booming, but do you know what distinguishes an organic wine from a conventional wine ?
It is true that the question can arise and from it several can arise. How to choose it well ? Is it better than a classic wine ? Is it possible to find a great organic wine ?
Organic wines are starting to find a place on the shelves. Today, one in three French people consume organic wine and more 8 % of the French vineyard is certified organic.
Yet, according to a survey carried out by us with a panel of 126 elderly between 18 to 35 years - called Generation Y —, half say they do not attach importance to organic wines. Why such disenchantment with the promise of a wine that is more respectful of the environment and the consumer ?
What is an organic wine ?
An organic wine is a wine from organic farming, in essence more respectful of the environment. To obtain organic certification, the winegrower makes a point of not using chemical fertilizers, chemical pesticides and other GMOs, in his vineyards. The winemaker is also committed to using only certified organic ingredients to vinify the wine –like grapes, sugar or alcohol-. To guarantee consumers compliance with these commitments, at least one check per year is carried out to maintain organic certification..
Why choose an organic wine more often ?
A winemaker who decides to produce an organic wine is above all a committed winemaker. Its philosophy directs all of its activity to protect the environment as much as possible, whether it is wildlife, the flora, soil or water while producing a quality wine at an affordable cost for the consumer.
How to know that a wine is organic ?
For the knowledge, the label will be your best ally. An organic winegrower will not hesitate to let you know by indicating on the bottle "organic wine" or "organic wine". The AB label that you know well is no longer mandatory since 2012. Some winegrowers continue to indicate it, but it's not systematic. On the other hand, since this date the "European organic label" has been created and is compulsory.
Is organic wine better ?
This is the difficulty of the matter. As with all wines, there are some good and some not so good.
Generally, organic wines have a beautiful natural minerality, better balance in the mouth with an intense aromatic expression. In addition, organic wines contain less sulphites so less risk of having a headache the next day - well it all depends on the reason for the headache too —.
In general, the length in the mouth - the persistence of aromas in the mouth - is longer in organic wines since the winemaker does not use aromatic yeasts. The wine depends on the winemaking techniques used by the winemaker and his oenologist. The choice of grape varieties, of the assembly carried out, the desired breeding method. All of these factors are taken into account in the quality of the wine and can work for and against its quality..
Is it possible to find a great organic wine ?
Organic wines are progressing more and more in the rankings of the various wine competitions. The great appellations are increasingly engaging in organic viticulture and that is a good thing. The new generations of winegrowers, agronomists or oenologists have been sensitized from a young age to ecological issues and are increasingly taking up the “organic” torch that their elders began to develop in France.
What is the difference between organic, biodynamic and natural wine
Organic wines
We are a long way from the time when organic wines were produced by enlightened marginalized people going against the grain of what was being done. Today, more and more vineyards are certified organic or are in the process of becoming so. There is no question for me to say that organic wines are by nature better, but that there are indeed such good organic wines, even better than some conventional wines - et frankly it would be a shame to do without —.
[Valid before 2012] However, we must not hide our face either.. The quality of organic wine is only applied to the harvest work - either viticulture —. Nothing prevents the winegrower from using a battery of chemicals in the cellar and having the right to affix the "organic wine" label. In practice, the winegrower to spend time and energy - and money - in viticulture so that it is organic and recognized as such, that it would be foolish to impose classic vinification on your wine.
[Valid after 2012] The European Commission created in 2012 the European organic wine label. This label imposes strict winemaking rules : a limit on the use of sulfur - all the same 100mg / L for red wines and 150mg / L for white wines —, the ban on the use of sorbic acid or different winemaking techniques such as cryoconcentration. However, various controversial products and methods - for a good number of organic winegrowers - remain authorized like flavored yeasts, wood chips for countries that authorize it or thermovinification which can go up to 70 °C. The risk of seeing the development of a multitude of industrial organic wines is increased with rules so little restrictive.
Different viticulture methods
Natural wine
After some research on this notion of "Natural Wines", we quickly realize that there is no clear definition and even less legislation to frame it. It seems that a beginning of consensus has formed to define a natural wine as a wine to which one should add little or no sulfur during its vinification.. — I told you it was vague - On the other hand, if there is one thing that is certain, it is that natural does not mean organic.
In my opinion the term Natural Wine should be replaced by Natural Wine. The word Natural suggests that the wine is made naturally without the intervention of the winegrower - which is perfectly impossible except to make vinegar —. To get wine, the winemaker can count on the action of two types of yeast. Native yeasts are the yeasts naturally present on the skin of the grape or the cellar., the terroir and which create the typicity of the wine. The winemaker can also decide to use selected yeasts. These are commercial yeasts that the winemaker can use in different stages of winemaking to direct his wine to what he is looking for.
The different Labels
The certification :
The objective of the certification body is to control wineries on behalf of public authorities to verify compliance with all French and European rules for producing organic wine. The name of the organization that issued the certificate appears on the label accompanied by the words "from organic farming".
The most famous organism is ECOCERT, but there are a lot of them - Agrocert or Quality-France for example —.
Labels :
The AB label is now well known to consumers. It was set up in 2005 by the Ministry of Agriculture to promote and defend organic farming. The name of the body that verified the application of the rules, as well as the words "Wine made from organically grown grapes" must accompany the AB label. The Bio agency is in charge of communication on this label.
Collective marks :
Collective marks are set up by a private organization which draws up specifications –more restrictive than French and European regulations– and who controls the correct application of these rules by visits to the farm.
DEMETER : this agency defines stricter rules than for organic wines. It is biodynamic viticulture as well as vinification with less sulfur. To go further : differences between Demeter and Organic Farming.
The Klur estate that I had the chance to visit and taste some of their wines is Demeter certified and the wines are truly breathtaking: « Discovery tour around Alsace wine ".
NATURE and PROGRESS : this federation of consumers and professionals advocates organic viticulture and gives recommendations for winemaking.
BIODYVIN : this international union of biodynamic winegrowers has chosen to control the winegrowers by an independent body: Ecocert.
There are still many others like Terra Vitis or Fnivab, but i may not give them all.
It exists 4 major categories of wine-growing operations :
Conventional agriculture : Conventional agriculture is the most widespread agriculture in France. The vines are chemically treated and the soil weeded
Reasoned agriculture : Reasoned agriculture developed at the beginning of the years 90 and obtained official recognition that in 2002. The winegrower knows he must respect the environment. It is in this sense that he signs a reasoned charter. He undertakes to respect these instructions on a voluntary basis - that is, there is no control —. The vines are treated only if necessary and with the least harmful products possible. The soil can be weeded by the winemaker. Recommended label : Terra Vitis
Biological agriculture : Here, we take it up a notch. Agrobiology advocates the rejection of chemicals, pesticides, fungicides and other fertilizers. Certification is based on regular checks by accredited bodies. Three years are needed to convert your farm to agrobiology. It is therefore only from the fourth year that the winemaker will be able to indicate that his wine comes from organic farming. This type of agriculture is a real desire of the winegrower because it takes more time, more financial means, more labor. The vines can be treated only with products of natural origin which will simply support the vine in its defense. Recommended label : Ecocert
Biodynamics : Biodynamics is a more advanced level than organic farming. It was developed by Rudolph Steiner in the years 20. He worked on the notion of anthroposophy. It means the earth is a living whole. The winegrower must therefore promote the life of the soil to obtain better grapes and therefore better wines.. Rather than treating the disease, it seeks to correct the imbalance that is its origin. Viticultural biodynamics has been widely defended in France by Nicolas Joly and his estate La Coulée de Serrant in the years 80. Biodynamics is a type of viticulture that is still very rare, but the resulting wines are often of better quality. Recommended label : Demeter
The sulfur-free wine — added —
During the vinification, sulfur is added for its antiseptic and antioxidant benefits which stabilize the wine. But like everything, sulfur has a flip side. It is not super good for the body and tends to harden the wine when used in large doses. For this reason, winegrowers are more and more used to using the minimum dose of sulfur to take advantage of the positive properties without having too much of the downside.
Some winegrowers have even decided to no longer use sulfur during vinification.. But it is a real risk bet for the winegrower. The winemaking and storage conditions must be absolutely irreproachable, because the slightest misstep is fatal. Very few wine merchants and even fewer private individuals cannot obtain the storage and conservation conditions necessary for this type of wine. : a stable temperature always below 14 °C.
While these wines are delicious and have real character, some may have defects or a rapid course with premature oxidation. Defenders of sulfur-free wines emphasize that wine is a living product. These developments are natural and we have to deal with. Red wine is naturally better protected than white wines by the presence of antioxidant tannins. White wines quickly turn to brown colors and nutty aromas - in the best case —, even fermentation or chard apple aromas.
I specified in the title that these wines were without added sulfur, because grapes naturally contain sulfur. There are two forms of sulfur in wine. Combined sulfur which is associated with other elements of wine such as sugar, alcohol or yeast. Free sulfur is that which is not associated and which is present in wine in the form of dissolved gas. It is he who is responsible for the headaches when he is too present. Normally, we should find a third of free sulfur against two thirds of combined sulfur.
To get an idea of the quantities of sulfur allowed in a dry white wine, the European standard allows a quantity of up to 210 mg per liter while Demeter does not allow an excess of 90 mg per liter. The statement "Contains sulphites" is mandatory on the label when there is more than 10 mg sulfur per liter.
Do not hesitate to let me know your impressions of your experience in the comments. You can also follow your wine blog with Instagram.
