During this somewhat murky time that we go through, some topics seem more covered than others. The Covid-19 had such an impact, that even today, I share articles on his influence in the wine industry in my daily review of 10 highlights of the wine world on Twitter. With the scale of the Black Lives Matter movement, it didn't take long to read articles on wine racism… Does describing a wine make us a racist, elitist and sexist ? Focus on this controversial topic with the wine blog Beaux-Vins…
The question of wine diversity begins with how we talk about the taste of wine
This title, as seductive as it is long, comes from Esther Mobley. She is a wine critic for the San Francisco Chronicle since 2015 and signed the article : « Wine’s diversity issue starts with the way we talk about the taste of wine "
According to her, she thought a lot this summer about the impact of words. She then realized that the lexicon used to describe a wine was just as racist, elitist than sexist.
The wine world is elitist
The descriptors used to describe a wine sometimes seem obscure to non-connoisseurs : empyreumatic, old bandages, grey amber…
Many other descriptors seem elitist in the eyes of our columnist. Indeed, the world of wine is anchored in European history and particularly in France. So, Esther Mobley explains that she has used descriptors as a "fruit paste" for years without having already tasted them.
In fact, this French terminology seems to be an obvious barrier to the discovery of wine for a non-European person. You then need to have a good knowledge of high-end cuisine or the financial means to be able to travel in Europe and appropriate them.
The wine industry is racist
Since the world of wine is elitist, it also reveals a form of racism. The language of exclusion is part of a larger exclusion. Cellar owners and winegrowers must master this language and these descriptors in order to interact with distributors, retailers and customers.
Consequence of this situation : only 1% of American wineries have a colored man as owner or cellar master.
The world of wine is sexist
Always according to his point of view, it is also obvious that the wine world is sexist. Esther Mobley explains that it is common to use the concepts of "male wine" and "female wine" to describe wines. A masculine wine is aggressive and muscular; a feminine, delicate and floral.
She continued her speech by explaining that this comparison does not end there. It is also often a question of "slutty wine" – in French, we speak more easily of putassier wine ” -, using the comparison between a tasted wine and the physique of Pamela Anderson or Kate Moss. This comparison is sometimes used to describe a rich and voluptuous wine, sometimes a thin and tight wine.
Is wine really elitist, racist and sexist ?
This article seems to me rather a desperate attempt to make a buzz, even a bad one. In my opinion, if she had really thought about the situation all summer, his conclusions would have been very different.
Is wine really elitist ?
Wine is nothing from an elitist world like Esther Mobley likes to want. Indeed, it is anchored in a culture that is foreign to her. Descriptors were developed to find a common language to describe a wine. These aromas were then intelligible in the major producing countries of Europe. However, these descriptors are not limited to a few French words like fruit paste or garrigue. It is not forbidden to talk about flavors of Soursop, Kaffir lime leaves or ginger that are not unique to Europe. The description of a wine is too subjective to be limited to a few aromas learned stupidly.
The only limit to our ability to describe a wine is our only knowledge of aromas..
Is wine really racist ?
For these same reasons, the description of a wine is not more racist. No one ever refused to use a descriptor just because they came from a different culture.
However, it is now to be deplored that a form of racialization of wine has taken place after the publication of this article. Indeed, many articles have appeared aiming to list domains owned by people of color. No one has ever asked me for a wine using gender criteria, color or religion… The choice of a wine is made according to its style, its ability to match or not with a dish, so why divide what is not ?
Is wine sexist ?
I'm not certain that the wine tasting descriptors are sexist. Although intelligible in the collective mind, notions of "male or female wine" are particularly little used by wine professionals – except by a few big names in tasting it seems -.
Is there a form of sexism in using a descriptor like vine peach, tobacco or humus ?
Where is the problem ?
Finally, this article is part of a larger issue. The United States is currently crossed by strong tensions on the subjects of racism and sexism. It is then easy to make a sensational article with these themes. Certainly, Esther Mobley woke up one morning wondering how to fit these words into a wine article.
As one internet user said so well in a commentary on the article " 23 Black-Owned Wineries Worth Supporting Right Now " :
I am quite confused by what this article says. Am I supposed to judge a vineyard or a wine by the color of the skin, not grapes, but the winemaker or the owner ? I do not live in the United States but I regularly visit wineries in France, Spain, Italy and England. Help me, please !
Let the world know that we lack imagination when describing a wine is one thing, but to want to make it sexist, elitist and racist is another. For the little joke, here is Esther Mobley taking a jet to talk to us today about elitism in the wine world :
This article reveals the too high importance we give to wine critics… seeking to use more and more abstruse descriptors to show the extent of their knowledge.
In terms of conclusion, Esther Mobley evokes the word "petrichor", a compact word for the smell of an asphalt road after rain. A esoteric Greek derivative therefore intelligible to all according to her… Is it that universal ? Is there at least one universal flavor ? Or are they all as subjective as each other since they appeal to our senses ?
I'm curious : what do you think of this article by esther mobley ? Do you agree with her that the descriptors used to describe wine are racist, sexist and elitist ? Or do you think on the contrary that it goes too far ?
Jean-Nicolas Mouretin
Read also :
- Wine : Are women less good at tasting ?
- Where do the aromas of wine come from ?
- Tasting : how to smell a wine ?
Do not hesitate to let me know your impressions of your experience in the comments. You can also follow your wine blog with Instagram.
Excellent article ! Esther Mobley may have confused with Bourbon
And what percentage of vineyard owners in France are non-white? And no, we don't choose a wine based on the owner's skin color because it shouldn't be necessary. Unfortunately the sad reality is that white homeowners often have the advantage of having more funds, which allows them to invest in marketing and market development and People of Color have only disadvantages. In addition, I have NEVER been to a property in France belonging to a non-white. And the few properties that are now owned by Chinese wine producers have come under much criticism.. Is the wine world racist ? Why not ask a minority ? Why don't you let a minority answer this question. Instead of spreading more ignorance and denial on the subject of racism. Your stupid answers would of course deny racism or sexism in the wine world. Moreover, you are a terribly terrible writer and a racist.
Hello Yazming,
first of all, I would like to thank you warmly for this sweet comment which could have been interesting if it had not been offensive.
To my dismay, I have found over time that such comments are the result of not reading said subject. Commenting without taking the time to read or reflect is apparently commonplace… especially when we have to take 4 minutes to read it. 🤷♂
In order to guide you as well as possible; I do not address here the subject of foreign producers or colors in France… a point that seems to be particularly close to your heart since it allows you to call me "a terribly terrible writer and a racist".
Unfortunately, reading the article would most certainly have made you understand that this is not at all the subject and would have prevented you from turning to ridicule in this way. It’s a shame, because it totally harms your point.
Indeed, Esther Mobley argues around wine descriptors and my reflection is only on this point.
I preferred not to moderate your comment to allow me to help you understand that your words are inappropriate, off-topic and unacceptable.
So all I have to do is wish you all the happiness of the world and hope that you will find inner peace in this year 2021 !