China - Should we be afraid of Chinese wine ?

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A while ago, we heard very regularly about the buyouts of Bordeaux wine estates by Chinese investors. In 2018, the castles under the Chinese flag represented 3 % Bordeaux wine-growing areas. Today, we mainly hear about the rise of the Chinese vineyard. Will they soon compete with French wine ?

Chinese wine history

For many wine lovers, the vineyard in China is a very recent creation. Indeed, we mainly hear about it since the beginning of the years 2000 in Europe thanks to the media.

However, it would be wrong to think that the Chinese vineyard is so young. In fact, the vine was introduced by an explorer returning from Europe to China in the 2nd century BC., under the Han dynasty. During the first centuries after their introduction, Chinese vineyards will mainly produce table grapes and raisins. Wine will begin to be better known in 640, under the Tang dynasty. From present-day Xinjiang, a new grape variety and winemaking techniques using natural grape yeasts were imported.. These vines will find their land in the Taiyuan region. The wine remained discreet until the years 90 with the economic opening of the country.

The real shift took place in 1996. During a banquet, Premier Li Peng Celebrates Adoption of Fifth Five-Year Plan with Glass of Red Wine. He then explained that the consumption of wine "is beneficial for the health, does not spoil grain and is good for social ethics ". He condemns the excessive consumption of baijiu and in a few years, wine becomes the business gift par excellence.

Wine consumption in China

For over ten years, China is catching up on its delay in wine consumption, as well as his knowledge in oenology and viticulture. Today, 5nd wine-consuming country, forecasts indicate that the country is expected to become the world's second largest consumer 2021.

According to a study carried out in 2013 by Wine Intelligence, the typical consumer of imported wines is a man between 30 to 39 years living in Shanghai. He belongs to the upper middle class and earns more than 2’000€. He likes to discover, try new wines and consume mostly red wine for its health benefits. The younger generations consume differently from their parents. Here, wealthy men drank red wine – especially Bordeaux and big names although they don't like – motivated by the social recognition they found there. Today, more feminine, more enlightened, the younger generations turn more readily to sweet and fruity wines and are not ready to pay the high price. Social recognition now depends more on knowledge of oenology than on the ability to uncork a bottle of Romanée-Conti – to sometimes put Coca-Cola in it… – !

These new consumers are helping to improve the quality of wines produced in China. The challenge now for the local vineyard is to bring this wine to local consumers. Between bad image and foreign competition, the Chinese vineyard still has work to do to be recognized…

Characteristic of the vineyard in China and of the wines

With over 85’000 hectares, the Chinese vineyard is the second largest in the world. However, the area reserved for wine production does not exceed that of Bordeaux with a production equivalent to that of Australia. If the vineyard has grown so quickly, is that the local governments have understood the interest of these wine-growing lands. Free provision of land, tank construction, road and electrical infrastructure, subsidies… The support is radical ! From now on, alongside large French groups such as LVMH and Pernod Ricard and Chinese investors, smaller wine-growing structures develop. These farms have their own vineyards and control the quality of the grapes produced.. They no longer have to buy grapes from farmers concerned about volume.

The main wine regions in China

The relief and the great diversity of terroirs – climates, land, reliefs – allow China a great diversification of wine production.

Province du Xinjiang

Xinjiang has developed an area of over 100 000 hectares of vines.

The Turfan

The Turfan region is located in the province of Xinjiang and has the distinction of being the lowest point on the globe after the Dead Sea. With its dry continental climate, average temperatures range from -11 at 27 ° C. The main grape varieties present are Cabernet Sauvignon, the Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Grenache and Syrah. Grape must has a high sugar content.

Le Shihezi

The Shihezi region, further north, is a region particularly well suited to the cultivation of vines. There are many hillsides and alluvial soils * with a high concentration of silt **. Despite a lack of rainfall, the region is crossed by the Manas river bringing moisture. We find in this region as main grape varieties the Chinese white grape, Cabernet Sauvignon, the Merlot, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

* Alluvium is a deposit of sediment from a watercourse

** the silt is a fine and fertile land that the waters deposit at the bottom and on the banks of rivers

Province du Gansu

Le Wuwei

Wuwei, which is located in western China upstream of the Yellow River, has an arid continental climate, the area is dry with little rain, with large temperature differences between summer and winter. The soil is poor, well suited to grape varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, the Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Grenache and Syrah.

Province du Ningxia

Le Helan

Located in altitude, near the Gobi desert, this wine region has an arid continental climate with a warm temperature, strong sunshine and little precipitation. All the conditions are met for the ripening of the grapes : cool nights, sunny and hot days without excess. The grape varieties present are Cabernet Gernischt, Riesling and Chardonnay.

Province du Shaanxi

Shaanxi provinces are located in northeast China, with a continental climate. We can clearly distinguish the four seasons, with alluvial soil, sandy and fairly fertile, the regions produce quality wines. There are a lot of Italian Riesling.

Province du Hebei

The Huaizhuo region is located in the hillsides of Hebei province and enjoys a permanent mild and sunny climate and dry with light rains, as well as a sandy-gravelly soil. This region is ideal for grape varieties such as Chinese white grapes.. It has been successful in recent years for the development of new grape varieties such as Cabernet., Sauvignon and Merlot. HuaiLai city produced the first bottle of dry white wine in China. Today, this region has become one of the best wine regions in China.

Le Shandong

Baie de Bohai

Bohau is the name of the sea bordered by this vast wine-growing area. This region produces close to 2/3 Chinese wine. Close to the coast, the climate is stable outside the monsoon period. It spans 20’000 hectares with many grape varieties : Chardonnay, Riesling italy, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet mix, Merlot, Carignan, Ugni Blanc… Three sub-regions exist, Tianjin, Changli, which produces good red wines, and Yantai.

Tonghua region

This region is located in Jilin province, is a city in northeast China close to North Korea. It holds the record for the coldest wine region in the world, with a winter temperature that can drop to – 40 °C. The main grape variety is Vamurensis, which tolerates the cold well.

Conclusion

China exported to 2013 1,9 million liters of wine for a value of 38,56 millions of dollars. The quantities exported have decreased, but the value of the liter of wine has increased. We can easily deduce that the wine gains in quality. Although a few companies say they want to build an international brand, China's production still represents 80% of national consumption and wines are still looking for a place in their territory. So it is not tomorrow the day before that we will see Chinese wines in our shelves.… However, competition will intensify in China and French wines may have more difficulty exporting there !

Jean-Nicolas Mouretin